26 color cosmetics research and development problem analysis There is always one you do not know!
01
Q: BB cream how to do skin, good application?
A: BB cream to do a good job on the skin, the system viscosity: to ensure the stability of the product under the premise of reducing the viscosity of the product, can improve the product’s malleability.
The influence of grease on the extensibility: the choice of grease and silicone oil with a small contact angle with the skin, easy to spread the characteristics.
Use more straight chain grease; avoid using too much viscous, branched chain, molecular weight of grease.
The influence of emulsifier on the extensibility: the choice of emulsifier in addition to the consideration and the cooperation of grease, the extensibility of the formula should be considered at the same time emulsifier freshness. Such as P 135 (PEG-30 dimer hydroxystearate) has good emulsification of grease performance, but its skin feel sticky; PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane has a good ability to emulsify silicone oil, and has a good degree of freshness.
Functional powder: Appropriate addition of spherical powder in the formulation, such as PMMA, nylon-12, etc., can reduce the frictional resistance in the process of application and use, thus making the product have better extension and spreading properties.
Others: Adding the following moisturizing and nourishing ingredients such as sodium hyaluronate and polyols in the aqueous phase can reduce the astringency caused by overly refreshing products, thus improving the spreading performance of the products.
02
Q: Water-in-oil, especially silicone oil-in-water, why the skin does not feel long-lasting moisturization
Silicone oil pack water system will be used inside, such as cyclopentamethyldimethylsiloxane and octyl polymethylsiloxane with volatile nature of silicone oil, can help color powder and pigment uniform dispersion, have good spreading, applicability, can significantly improve the use of light and lasting, moist and silky touch, but with the passage of the skin moisture evaporation and silicone oil volatility, will just feel the interference, especially refreshing grease more Obviously.
03
Q: What is the best solution when low viscosity water-in-oil BB cream is filled in clear glass/acrylic bottle with floating color?
Low viscosity water-in-oil is really not very good to do stability, can be used in the formulation of grease and color powder surface treatment agent incompatibility will also lead to the gathering of color powder, as far as possible with the color powder surface treatment agent compatible grease, adjust the formulation of volatile grease use, such as low-viscosity volatile polydimethylsiloxane, isododecane, etc.; at the same time, the use of appropriate amount can form a long-lasting moisturizing grease in the skin surface and Soft lipids such as pentaerythritol tetrakis(ethylhexanoate), shea butter, polyhydroxy stearic acid, etc. can improve this phenomenon.
04
Q: silicone oil package water emulsifier is generally added to a maximum of a few points
The main emulsifier 2.5-3.5%, help emulsifier 0.5-1.5%, too much and too little will affect the stability of the system or viscosity, freshness. Similar to 1.KF6017 0.5% + KF6038 2.5%.2.KF6017 1.5% + KF6038 2%.3.EM90 2.5% + WE09 0.5% with.
05
Q: Is it considered unstable if the foundation does not adhere to the beaker wall?
It is considered unstable and needs to be further tested by adding stability test or centrifugal test for evaluation.
06
Q: Isolation cream BB cream these R & D will not consider color hedging, green isolation for red blood skin, purple isolation for yellow skin?
About the color matching or so-called complementary issues, is to consider the consumer use, color complementary is the consumer habits, the product is popular is also the impact of market consumption.
In line with the needs of the majority of the population, the structure and number of products need to be considered among them, as the R & D staff to consider the feelings of consumers after use, in order to meet the market habits.
07
Q: Now titanium dioxide is not recommended to use nano-level words, micron-level how to ensure its dispersion in the conventional formula? What points need to be adjusted in the formulation design? Are there any recommended alternative products?
Micron grade titanium dioxide is dispersed using good grease, such as: polyhydroxystearic acid / diethylhexyl carbonate / PTIS, etc. The formulation design needs to disperse the color powder completely, the general silicon treated color powder, all have good dispersion ability, the market is very selective.
08
Q: How do most of the teacher’s dispensing need high temperature emulsification?
Generally, the oil item is heated to 70-75 degrees and started to do downward, while the temperature slowly decreases down, the water item is heated and cooled down to be used.
09
Q: Can’t the color powder be dispersed with a disperser?
Some color powders cannot be dispersed with a disperser alone, so it is best to choose a colloid mill or grinder to completely disperse in the oil item.
10
Q: Propylene glycol is added to 10 points, it does not freeze at -18℃, is propylene glycol stable at low temperature?
Propylene glycol has good anti-freezing performance when 5% is used, and the product can be used normally when it returns to room temperature.
11
Q: CC can do viscosity lower, I’m talking about low viscosity, ultra-low low viscosity, and powder suspension?
CC cream ultra-low viscosity is very difficult to do, the suspension of powder can choose fumed silica R974, or bentonite to suspend, as well as suspension performance of good grease.
12
Q: Is the powder quality of the precious woman cream is pearl powder?
The main ingredients water, mineral fat, lighthouse jellyfish extract, glycerin, ginseng root extract, hydrolyzed pearl, sodium hyaluronate, arbutin, hydrolyzed collagen, squalane, vitamin E, lanolin, aloe vera extract, licorice extract, rosehip oil. Some of the other powdery sensations inside, some of the sources are silicone elastomers for the skin feel.
13
Q: How can I achieve a foundation BB cream CC cream without smudging my face?
In the color modulation, choose the powder with good fitting performance and easy to penetrate the skin, the color powder should choose the treated color powder triethoxyoctylsilane, if you can also choose the fluorine treated color powder or fluorine ether treated color powder, more lasting makeup.
14
Q: water-in-oil sunscreen to SPF 70, or almost transparent sunscreen what are the options available, or formulation design direction?
Sunscreen generally has a physical way + chemical sunscreen composition, physical sunscreen type to contribute more than 65 SPF, but to achieve sunscreen to SPF 70 is very difficult, and also need to be a water-in-oil system, but transparent sunscreen oil is available to choose a variety of chemical sunscreen compounding, including UV absorbers including octane-1 methoxycinnamic acid (OMC), octocrylene, octa- salicylic acid (OCS), avobenzone (Paso 1789), such products have a good sense of transparency, but there is a certain degree of irritation to the skin, the type and the amount added is strictly limited by the relevant standards.
15
Q: If I remove the color powder, can I make a cream for skin care? If the cream wants to make thicker like hand cream, emulsifier 5 points more?
Can be made into a cream type, but the composition and structure is completely different, completely with low-grade emulsifier to do, if this method to do skin care formulations can also be more emulsifiers, moisturizing oils and fats to increase, such as cocoa butter, shea butter, etc.
16
Q: film-forming agent formula must have?
According to the requirements and needs of the product to decide, you can not use film-forming agent.
17
Q: What is the principle of the currently popular water-based foundation?
The water release powder is mainly a wax-based unit-based formulation, in compounding emulsifiers, emulsifying 10% water or glycerin to make a system that can be filled.
18
Q: the direction of stability of air cushion BB, over heat and cold resistant, and even floating color may
Color powder incomplete dispersion in the oil phase is likely to cause aggregation between color powder thus leading to color powder settlement; selection of color powder need to do to deal with the compatibility with grease.
19
Q: Why use glycerin to grind color paste?
When the color powder is dispersed in water phase, the color paste increases the viscosity of the formula when grinding, which is easier to disperse.
20
Q: How can I solve the problem that low viscosity foundations are layered and sometimes the color powder falls to the bottom?
If the viscosity of the formula is low, the color powder is easy to sink. Improving the viscosity of the formula can improve this phenomenon by increasing the amount of thickening and suspending agent, adjusting the ratio of water phase to oil phase, increasing the amount of water phase, etc.
21
Q: The foundation paste is filled in the aluminum tray, how to avoid the paste dry shrinkage or paste and aluminum tray separation?
The formulation of foundation cream should consider the shrinkage of wax in the formulation, test the 45 degree stability, and also consider the amount of volatile grease in the formulation
22
Q: The quality of air cushion BB, there will be material body on the inner lid, that is, the material body has spilled out, is it because of the incompatibility of material body and sponge core? The material body is water-in-oil type, and the sponge core is high-density, polyester-polyurethane material. Can you also bring down the quality problems and solutions of color cosmetics in tomorrow’s course? Before and after development
The inner liner should consider two factors: 1. the impact of the filling method, the material is too slow, or downward pressure type extrusion material stays in the upper part of the overflow, adjust the injection of material fast and slow to solve, filling should be better to use downward suction type, 2. the density of the sponge core and the viscosity of the material with the body also has a relationship, you can consider the material has become thin when filling, or viscosity has decreased resulting.
Color cosmetics are prone to a wide range of quality problems and solutions, we can discuss in private, if the primer class in the PPT is very detailed.
When developing, pay attention to the product stability and viscosity after 24 hours, already the viscosity range specified in the product specification is reached, should be measured before filling.
23
Q: Advantages and disadvantages of different types of powders (titanium dioxide, talc, kaolin, bentonite, mica, diatomaceous earth, modified starch, silica powder) in foundations and suggested directions for their compatibility.
Titanium dioxide in the formula mainly plays a role in increasing whiteness, covering imperfections and other effects, general oil solubility can be used with many formulations, talc is mainly to play the role of filler, increase the slipperiness and moisturization, kaolin plays an oil-absorbing, bring moist, remove facial oil, bentonite to increase the consistency, mica to bring luster and smoothness, diatomaceous earth is used to absorb oil, can absorb facial sebum, but the formula is dry, modified starch It is used as a product smoothness to do skin feel improver, silica powder brings good silky smoothness.
24
Q: fair light yellow black yellow skin tone corresponding to the color scheme of the foundation proposal.
Foundations are roughly divided into: yellow, purple, and white.
The most suitable foundation color for a healthy Asian face yellow: yellow foundation
The most suitable color for a dull and yellowish complexion: purple foundation
The best color for all skin types: white foundation
The effectiveness and location of different colors of foundation
Yellow foundation: Finishing effect Reduces the contrast deviation before and after applying makeup, and is similar to the yellowish skin tone of oriental people.
Suitable position: the whole face.
Purple Foundation: This foundation changes dull, lusterless skin and yellowish complexion, giving a natural rosy glow to the face and improving dark circles and puffy eyelids.
Suitable location: Full face and eyes
White foundation: all skin tones. White color has an expanding and enlarging effect, so using white powder can improve the shape of a face that is not prominent or too thin.
Suitable locations: temples, under the eyes, T-zone, etc. It can make the face look fuller and more three-dimensional, highlighting the features.
Note: Any color foundation should not be used in isolation from your own skin tone, and it is best to try it on your face.
25
Q: How can air cushion BB, CC guarantee to hold makeup for a whole day, how to achieve the effect of the formula structure and selection of materials, suitable for oily, combination, dry skin?
For long-lasting makeup, add film-forming agents appropriately. The structure of the formula: choose water-in-silicone (W/Si) or water-in-oil (W/O) to add functional oils to the product to keep the product moist in use, so that dry skin is not too dry and oily skin is not too oily.
26
Q: What is the structure of the quick-drying foundation that has no distinctive characteristic smell?
Magnesium/zinc stearate or silicone-treated mica or talc inside the product accounts for a large amount, and with volatile silicone oil or isododecane, the product dries quickly when applied, forming this type of formula.
